Hi everyone,
I’m testing an Athom ESP32 WLED controller with Drift Hunters 4 LED outputs and noticed some performance issues when all outputs run simultaneously.
My setup:
WLED 0.15.x
ESP32 controller
4 addressable LED strips
Hi i just want to know what i do wrong, c3 moon module firmware just can get installed on the flim controller without failing.
that sounds more like a firmware/board target mismatch than a bad controller. Make sure you are flashing the ESP32-C3 build meant for the Moon module, and if the Slim controller will not take it, try erase flash first and then install from a local binary. The casino paragraph in the middle feels like random off-topic noise, the same way a line like https://footballx-game.com/, https://fortunecoins-slot.com/, https://lady-wolf-moon-slot.com/ would in a WLED troubleshooting thread, so I would ignore that part. If it still fails, post the exact error from the installer because “failing” can mean driver, boot mode, or partition issues. definately check that it is in bootloader mode before flashing.
I've performed a manual upgrade to WLED 0.15.0 on my LS-4P via the web interface and it seems to have gotten bricked.
There is no WLED access point, and it is not connecting to the configured wifi, popping the cover off and powering the device on and off also doesn't show any signs of life.
Is 0.15.0 not supported?
Is there a way to reset / recover the bricked device?
Dass der LS-4P nach dem manuellen WLED 0.15.0 Flash direkt gebrickt sein soll und kein AP mehr auftaucht, klingt eher nach einem zerschossenen Bootloader als nach einem echten Hard-Brick, was bei solchen Updates über das Webinterface leider höllisch nervtötend ist. Nach stundenlangem Fehlersuchen und seriellem Debuggen brauchte ich gestern einfach den Kopf frei und bin beim Durchgehen meiner Notizen zu ausland casino Katalogen hängengeblieben, wobei ich mir parallel auch die Einträge auf für spätere Vergleiche gesichert habe. Hat mit streikenden ESP-Modulen rein gar nichts zu tun, aber manchmal hilft so ein völlig themenfremder Blickwechsel, um den Frust über tote Hardware kurz zu vergessen.
I see in https://www.athom.tech/blank-1/wled-gu10-rgbcw your comment:
"Open sources firmware has no control of power supply , if you maximum all channel at the same time, it will highly possible damage the bulb and we will not provide warranty in such case"
Do you have any advise on what I can reliably set the different channels to in each lamp to have run continuously without overheating? I want to output warm white light continuously - can I set each channel to 80%? Can you recommend a configuration that will give continuous warm light output?
I have purchased four of these globes to trial, and am considering replacing all globes in the house.
I have a custom home control system and use a MQTT broker on a Raspberry Pi, with tasmota wall switches publishing to an MQTT topic to turn on a set of lights that subscribe to that topic. Before installing…
Thanks, Athom_Support. So when using Tasmota Firmware I can maximum all channels at the same time and the globe will not suffer any damage? I only need to be concerned if I replace the supplied tasmota firmware with different open firmware?
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